White knuckles in white water
Debra Solomon straps on her life jacket and heads down
some wild rapids in Fiji.
It’s no use telling this complete novice that a whitewater
rafting trip is only a grade 2/3. The numbers mean nothing, and I’d
seen the movie The River Wild so knew the dangers ahead. Possible
kidnapping, being forced at knifepoint over a mighty waterfall and
dashing my skull on a rock were all likely.
In the face of imminent danger, I front at the Rivers Fiji
office in Pacific Harbour at 6.45am for my all-day Upper Navua
River adventure. Having the good sense to stay at the Pearl - the
area’s most chic five-star hotel - the night before meant this
early start is relatively civilised compared to the 5.30am one for
rafters coming from the Nadi side of the island; it was still
another one-hour bus trip through the jungle to the river entry
point.
From bus to boat, it’s a 20-minute downhill mudslide for which
thongs just don’t cut the mustard; many a flip-flopper has slipped
and fallen while those laced into old joggers are (almost)
fine.
At the water’s edge, the complete encyclopedia of whitewater
safety instructions is demonstrated in two minutes: this arm signal
indicates you’re drowning, this one means you’ve snapped your leg
in a submerged log, and that one means death is imminent. After a
few minutes of panic, it’s clear the directions are designed to
bamboozle. In reality, each kayak’s muscly Fijian guide (mine being
the hunky Philip) runs the whole show from his double-oared,
custom-made seat high at the back of the boat. Sunnies and life
jacket strapped on, sunscreen and supplied spray jacket secured in
the dry bag, and you’re off.
The trip starts out in a spectacular 46-metre high gorge forged
by blackened lava and limestone which spans little more than five
metres in some places.
Along the day’s 24-kilometre run, there are up to 100 waterfalls
in wet season. At what the locals call “Free Massage Waterfall”, we
have the opportunity to feel the thunderous downpour on our
shoulders. It’s extremely easy to slip on the rocks below; a hand
from a burly guide is definitely recommended.
As a conservation park, this part of the river is a haven for
rock orchids, vibrant morning glory vines and massive 20-metre
bamboo sprays used to make rafts.
It is also home to endemic bats, birds, iguanas and fish. All
these natural wonders, along with sea fossils embedded in the
fascinating rock formations, are worth the investment of a
waterproof, disposable camera. (The US operators accompanying the
trip take photos which are available for sale at the end of the
day, but it’s fun to snap your own.)
Somewhere along the river bank, the kayaks muster for lunch
while the guides conjure up a buffet lunch in a few minutes. Fresh
fruit, salads, rolls, juice, water, homemade banana cake and a
bush-style whistle stop are welcome.
After lunch, Philip earns his $2.50 an hour by skylarking with
his fellow guides, much to the delight of the tourists. The guides
have been conspiring to wreak havoc upon unsuspecting rafters who
appear up for some fun. Some kayaks are rammed (gently) into
cliffs, some are forced under bracing waterfalls, and some spun 360
degrees down a rapid. Then there are individuals like me who are
plucked out of the boat and dropped in the river before you can say
The River Wild.
By this stage of the trip, I realise my life is completely in
the hands of Philip who has lived his whole life along this river.
With one hand, he deftly scoops me up and places me back into the
boat. Despite initial fears about whitewater rafting, the Upper
Navua Grade 2/3 trip is kind to novices, presenting manageable
rapids, spectacular scenery and lots of controlled thrills. By the
end of the day I’m up for a Grade 3/4 run - sort of. As long as
Philip comes.
The writer was the guest of the Pearl and Rivers Fiji
Tours.
TRIP NOTES
Getting there: Virgin Blue flies to Nadi
starting from about $279 one way. See http://www.virginblue.com. Rivers
Fiji office is in Pacific Harbour, two hours’ drive from Nadi.
There are several car hire companies at Nadi Airport.
Staying there: The Uprising Beach Resort in
Pacific Harbour has backpacker accommodation. Beachfront bures are
$F155 ($114) per night for a double, and dormitory rooms for $F30 a
night. Phone +67 9345 2200 or see http://www.uprisingbeachresort.com.
For more accommodation options see http://www.pacificharbour-fiji.com/accommodations.htm.
More information: Rivers Fiji Upper Navua trip
costs $194 per person including hotel transfers and lunch. The best
time to go is during the wet season, from October to April. During
the dry season the river bed can be so low you will have to push
the boat. See www.riversfiji.com.
Source: The Sun-Herald
Posted
on
Monday, February 4th, 2008 at 8:01 pm under